Train travel City stays only Walk-everywhere base Fast pace
planned by @kaleginieneour actual trip — fast pace, no car, every stop earning its place. not a template.
your italy by trains.
every item is a suggestion — not a rule.
01
Chapter one · Rome 4 nights · 4 days · the historic centre, on foot
1
Day one
Landing night
Rome — the late arrival
Land in Rome, taxi to the hotel late flight, short evening · don't fight it
Check in at Club House Roma~10 min walk to St. Peter's · 15 to Trevi · 15 to the Pantheon · *more on how we picked it below*
Quick bite if you have the energy otherwise sleep · day one isn't really a day
easy night
2
Day two
First Roman day
St. Peter's + the historic centre + Trevi
Breakfast at Bono Bottega Nostranaacross the road from St. Peter's · 4.8 stars, 2,480+ reviews and they earn it · truffle sandwiches + coffee · *we came back twice*
Walk St. Peter's Square + Vatican exterior square is free · calm at this hour · the museum is its own day — *book it now (see day 4)*
Wander the historic centre Pantheon → Piazza Navona → wherever your feet go · Rome rewards aimless walking more than any city in Europe
Trevi Fountain — but only at the right hour peak hours = wall of selfie sticks · go before 8am or after 11pm for a different fountain entirely
must do timing matters
3
The big one
Book ahead
Colosseum + the ancient bit · the day everyone underestimates the booking on
Book Colosseum tickets the moment they release — 30 days before your visit · official site only ticketing.colosseo.it · we booked 2 weeks out and got the *last slot of the day* · don't push it · skip the third-party resellers, official is cheaper
Standard ticket €18 / person · valid for the day includes Colosseum + Roman Forum + Palatine Hill · skip the Arena Floor upgrade unless you're going deep
Allow 3–4 hours for the combo Colosseum + Forum + Palatine flow naturally from one to the next
Walk the surroundings Arch of Constantine → up to the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II · all free · the lift to the Vittoriano top is worth the small fee
Wear actual shoes Rome's cobbles destroyed both of us · cute shoes stay home
Vatican Museum · the day everyone underestimates the time on
Book the official small-group guided tour direct from the Vatican Museums tickets.museivaticani.va · group of ~10 · 2-hour guided tour · ~€40 / person all-in (entry €20 + reservation €5 + earphones €1.50 + guide service €13.50)
~€80 for two · half what GetYourGuide / Viator / Tiqets charge same tour, same group size, same guide quality — aggregators bundle the same product at €60–90 / person · skip them, go direct
Stay longer after the tour — your ticket lets you guided portion is 2 hours · we stayed another hour on our own and *still* didn't see everything · plan a half day, not a 2-hour slot
Why guided beats self-guided here the Sistine Chapel, the Michelangelo backstory · none of it lands without context · self-guided = walk through, phone photo, leave
More impressive than the Louvre yes that's a sentence we're publishing · yes, even the Louvre
We got lucky with an outdoor table; you'll usually need to reserve. The octopus was the best either of us has ever eaten. Strong seafood across the board. We made a reel about it — that's how good. Reserve.
Went for the lobster · it was good, not life-changing but properly solid · seafood across the board worked · sits a few steps from Antonio. If Antonio is full, this is your backup — and it's a good one.
Pizzas were good. The actual reason it makes the page: the waiter pulled out a JBL speaker and started singing while serving food. This is the kind of moment you came to Italy for.
4.7 stars. 2,000+ reviews. We trusted the rating. We were wrong. Disappointing pizza, not worth the walk from Termini. The miss is in the page so you can trust the hits.
Aperitivo We did it most evenings — didn't track spots, just walked until we found a piazza with chairs. Aperol spritz ~€7–12 a pop. Half the trip.
Gelato Multiple stops, no single rec. Easy rule: avoid the neon-coloured mounds piled high in the tourist windows. Stick to muted natural colours = real ingredients.
Honest gaps
Saved for next time.
We focused our four nights on the historic centre. These are the gaps we'd add on a return trip — and we'd rather leave them honest than fake the recommendation.
Trastevere for an evening — the Rome neighbourhood we missed
A proper sunset spot — Pincio, Gianicolo, or the Aventine keyhole
Authentic flat, perfect location, very fair price. The catch: the AC technically worked but didn't actually cool the room — sleeping in 30°+ heat was rough. Worth knowing if you're going in summer. Off-season this would be a great pick.
Hits all four parts of our city-stay rule: price, reviews, location. If we were going back, this is the one.
6
Florence · day one
Walking day
The historic centre on foot
Wander the piazzas Piazza della Signoria → Piazza della Repubblica · Florence is a museum without a ticket
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore — inside is free if you want to climb the dome, *book ahead* · we didn't, queue was massive, we missed it · learn from us
Basilica of Santa Croce — exterior was enough for us we're not deep into history · if you are, the inside has Michelangelo's tomb · ~€8 entry
Lunch at All'Antico Vinaio — yes, the viral one worth the queue · huge, juicy, fresh meat, multiple flavours · not perfection but recommended
The Wine Window — tick once, move on fun moment · they charge double the normal Aperol price for the gimmick of serving through a tiny window · pay for the photo, not the drink
Dinner at Ristorante Steakhouse Auditoretruffle gnocchi were perfect · the meat was great too · don't let the "steakhouse" name throw you, the pasta is as good as the steak
Free Duomo entryBook the dome aheadWear comfy shoes
David at the Accademia — €42 / person via GetYourGuide same-day queues snake around the block · we used [GetYourGuide](https://www.getyourguide.com/en-gb/florence-l32/florence-michelangelo-s-david-skip-the-line-entry-ticket-t453159/) because the official Accademia site is notoriously hard to navigate · official direct is ~€20–25 / person if you can manage it · *we paid the convenience tax — your call*
Walk the city · drift through Mercato Centraleupstairs is a food court worth a snack stop · downstairs is the proper market
Aperitivo at Moyo Firenzecocktails great · terrace has a mist spray to cool off · the snacks are enough for dinner · *but go for drinks not a full meal*
book ahead aperitivo win
8
Pisa · day trip
In + out
Pisa — the leaning tower in 6 hours, not 6 days
First train morning · last train night · home before midnight Trenitalia Regionale, ~50 min direct, ~€10 / person · ~46 trains a day every 30 min · *just turn up, no booking needed*
Piazza dei Miracoli is the whole point leaning tower + cathedral + baptistery · all in one square · the building is bigger and more dramatic than the photos
We didn't climb — too many tourists climbing the tower is bookable in advance, ~€20 · we did the photo and called it
Dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria L'Europeotouristy, but the food was better than expected · honest pick if you need to eat in Pisa
Last train back to Florence · sleep in your Florence bed this is why a Florence base works — Pisa doesn't need its own hotel
📍 Pisa · my honest take
The building? Genuinely stunning. Bigger than you think, more dramatic than the photos. You stand there and understand why people have been making this trip for 800 years.
The rest of town? You'll spend more time looking for a decent lunch than enjoying anything. Tourist traps. Mediocre food. The magic is in the piazza, full stop.
Day trip from Florence is the move. Don't book a hotel. Trains run all day. Go, do the pose, eat your gelato, head back.
Not every famous place needs a hotel night. Some of Italy's best stops are 6-hour visits, not 6-day stays. Knowing which is which is half the trip.
The viral sandwich place. Lives up to most of the hype: huge, juicy, fresh meat, multiple flavours, fair price. Not perfection — but recommended. The queue moves faster than it looks.
Cocktails are great. Terrace has a mist spray to cool off in summer. Snacks are fine. Skip the proper meal — it's not what they're best at. Drinks + nibbles is the move.
Fun moment. They charge double the normal Aperol price just for serving through a tiny window. You're paying for the photo, not the drink. One pour, photo, move on.
Touristy, yes. But the food was better than expected. If you're hungry in Pisa and don't want to gamble, this works.
Honest gaps
Saved for next time · Florence.
Three nights weren't enough to do everything well. These are the gaps we'd add on a return trip — and we'd rather leave them honest than fake the recommendation.
Climbing the Duomo dome — book ahead, learn from our miss
Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset — the Florence sunset spot, didn't make it
Oltrarno (the left bank) — Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens, San Niccolò · the local side of Florence
Bistecca alla fiorentina — we didn't do the proper Florentine steak night, on the list
03
Chapter three · Milan + Como 2 nights · 2 days · the goodbye city, with a lake detour
Where to stay in Milan.
Walking distance to the Duomo. Without paying Duomo prices.
Very good location. Very clean rooms. Price was honestly great. Easy reach to the Duomo on foot. Hits all four parts of our city-stay rule. The Florence AC saga did not repeat.
9
Florence → Milan
Train + city night
Train to Milan · evening at the Duomo
Trenitalia Frecciarossa, Florence → Milano Centrale ~1h 40m–2h direct · 30+ trains a day · book ~2 weeks ahead in summer · Standard ~€25–35 / person · Premium ~€30–40 / person
We tried Premium — only a few euros more than Standard verdict: *they bring you a bottle of water and a snack on arrival. That's it.* · seats are barely different · save your money on hops under 2 hours · Standard wins again
Check into Porta Vittoria Homeswalking distance to the Duomo · drop bags, hit the city
Walk through the centre · Duomo di Milanothe cathedral hits different at golden hour · skip the climb if you're tired · the square is the postcard
Aperitivo + snacks for dinner Milan invented this · find a piazza, order a Negroni Sbagliato, take your time · ~€10–15 / drink with included nibbles · *this counts as dinner*
Standard class winsAperitivo IS dinnerSave the climb for daylight
10
Como + home
Last big day
Lake Como day trip · then home
Train Milan → Como, ~40 min regional Trenitalia from Milano Centrale or Porta Garibaldi · ~€5–10 / person · no booking, just turn up
Public ferry to Torno (Navigazione Laghi) first-basin circular ticket ~€10–12 / person · buy at the pier · we wanted Bellagio · everything to Bellagio was *sold out* on the day
Want Bellagio? Book a few days ahead Como → Bellagio fast hydrofoil ~€17 one-way · day pass ~€27 · in summer the boats fill · you don't need 2 weeks, but you do need a few days
Lunch back in Como at Middle East — the meal we didn't know we needed day 10 of pasta and pizza · Lebanese broke the spell · sharable portions, food was amazing · 4.7 / 1,400+ reviews · *10 days of carbs hits a wall — plan one non-Italian meal toward the end*
Train back to Milan late afternoon same route, same price · grab bags from the hotel · head to airport
Fly home from Milan that evening Malpensa or Linate · Malpensa Express train from Milano Centrale (~50 min, ~€13) · *this whole day works only on a late flight · earlier flight = drop the lake, stay in Milan*
10 days, 5 cities, 3 hotels, 2 day trips, 0 rental cars arrivederci · the brief was "see Italy, no car, fast pace" · brief delivered
We ditched pasta on day 10. Lebanese broke the spell. Sharable portions, food was amazing, 4.7 / 1,400+ reviews. The lesson: 10 days of pizza hits a wall. Plan one non-Italian meal toward the end of the trip — your future self will thank you.
Honest gaps
Saved for next time · Milan + Como.
Two nights in Milan is a quick goodbye, not a city visit. These are the gaps we'd add if we made Milan its own trip — and we'd rather flag them than fake it.
The Last Supper — Leonardo's fresco at Santa Maria delle Grazie · book 2 months ahead, slots are notoriously hard to get
Climbing the Duomo terraces — the rooftop walk is the actual Milan view, we missed it
Brera + Navigli — the neighbourhoods we wanted to explore but didn't have time for
Bellagio — we tried · everything was sold out on the day · book the ferry a few days ahead in summer or you'll end up in Torno like we did (which was actually lovely, but it wasn't the plan)
Train booking · works every route
Trenitalia.
Standard class is enough — air-con, fast, comfortable
Don't pay for Premium / Business on hops under 2 hours · we tested it Florence → Milan: a bottle of water and a snack, that's it
Book 2 weeks ahead for the lowest fares (we paid ~€20 Rome → Florence)
Direct trains every 20–30 min on the main lines
Stations are city-centre. No airport transfer hassle
Our city stay rule
How we pick hotels in expensive cities.
8.5+ rating only. Below that, you're gambling
Walking distance from a metro station — a few minutes max
*Stay just outside the dead-centre tourist zone.* Same walk to the sights, half the price
Sort lowest price first, raise the bar slowly until reviews + location match
Our ticket rule · works for every paid attraction
Book direct from the official site.
Aggregators (GetYourGuide, Viator, Tiqets) sell the same ticket for 30–60% more. Our Vatican Museums guided tour was ~€40 / person direct vs €60–90 / person on aggregators. Direct = cheaper, fewer fees, easier to refund.
Colosseum + Forum + Palatine — ticketing.colosseo.it · €18 standard, releases 30 days ahead
Vatican Museums + guided tour — tickets.museivaticani.va · ~€40 / person all-in (entry + small-group tour + earphones)
Galleria dell'Accademia (David) — official Accademia site is ~€20–25 / person · we paid €42 / person on GetYourGuide because the official booking flow is a maze · the one time we broke our own rule. Convenience tax: ~€15 / person.
Real numbers · full trip · the two of us · August 2025
€735per person · 9 nights · hotels + tickets + Italy transport
Chapter 01 · Rome (4 nights)
Hotel (Club House Roma, 4 nights) — €450
Colosseum (×2, official direct) — ~€36 + booking fees
Vatican guided tour (×2, official direct, all-in) — ~€80
Train to Florence (×2, Standard, 2 weeks ahead) — ~€40
Chapter 02 · Florence + Pisa (3 nights)
Hotel (Neri 3, 3 nights) — €311
Accademia tickets (×2, GetYourGuide) — €84
Pisa train return (×2, no booking) — ~€40
Chapter 03 · Milan + Como (2 nights)
Hotel (Porta Vittoria Homes, 2 nights) — ~€320
Train to Milan (×2, Premium, ~2 weeks ahead) — ~€70
Como train + Torno ferry (×2) — ~€35
Excludes:flights · food + drinks · we didn't track these. Eat your way through.
Prices will move in 2026 — use as a benchmark, not a promise. We're not pretending to be precise where we weren't.
almost there. · 10 days in italy by train · rome · florence · milan · planned with love · approved by both of us.